Senegal

I did the trip to Senegal again because I like the country, wanted to visit Touba, it was actually my goal and then go to Casamance, to this nice village Abene for relax a little and warm me, see a little more sun than we have in Sweden in the winter, and actually not so much during the whole year either.


We landed in Dakar and next day rented the car. Then we did not much, only sat near the sea, drank coffee, ate something, relaxing there.

First next day we started our trip and I planned to go to Touba, the holy city of Muslims, to see the Great Mosque. It was about  200 km from Dakar. There I wanted to go last time I have been in Senegal, but it did not work to me, which was good because mosque were in the reconstruction,  it was even now, but less.

It went nicely, we drove on the highway, but it was a little muddled and suddenly I saw that we are on the way to the sea, instead of to inland. Although I asked someone about the way for to go well, so it was not right and we had to go back, but only about 20 km. Then it was right direction, but narrow and slow road and heaps of cars. Later, when we turned from the main road leading into St. Louis, it was better and driving was only nice.


To Mbake, near Touba which was about 10 km, we arrived in the afternoon. I booked one Campement there with bungalows and it was quite nice. Only the person who led it, he was a little confused or what, but always finally we got what we wanted. Originally I thought that we would stay only one night, but then I decided to stay two nights so we not need to have hurry then to our next stop. And had enough time for to visit the Great Mosque and Touba self.

The next morning we went to Touba, which was about 10 km away. There in the city were no hotels, no restaurants or cafes, it was even prohibited to smoke anywhere. When we came to the parking outside the mosque, I just tried to see what happens if I smoke, haha. I sat in the car and just lit it when one man came up to me and explained that I can't smoke there, took my cigarette and threw away.

It was a holy town and mostly pilgrims where visited it. There was a possibility to stay free over night in some dorms, but only for pilgrims. And they could stay there free of charge. Nice.

The entrance to the city and the mosque was not just nice, I do not understand that they built it in so near the Mosque. There were everywhere lots of cars, donkeys with carts, etc. Such a mess of everything.


It was prohibited to walk in the shoes on both the courtyard and the mosque logically, you had to take off right at the entrance. The man who took my cigarette was also a guide and he offered me to show the mosques, so I agreed.

Those three women helped me to put my scarf as hijab on my head























Then we, me and my guide went inside the mosque.

The mosque was huge, large spaces, my guide said it will fit 7,000 people. We went through almost everything, though everywhere was something to repairing as well. Lots of countries around the earth sent contributions like marble from Italy, tile from Tunisia and Morocco, from the Philippines something also, from Canada too. I not remember from where everything was sent.

marble from Italy
tile from Tunisia
and from Morocco

All rooms and places I got to see were so nice, cold, peacefully, lovely so I had almost no desire to go out again.




















Perfect symmetry.

Pity that my picture is not so much symmetric, I am not so good photographer. 
And also that the minarets have not been fully repaired yet, look as hedgehogs almost. But anyway they are very nice.



We went also to even look at the very first mosque which was built in Touba, quite nicely. But inside I was not, just took a picture of that from the outside. Not much to see while it was standing behind a wall.


Then we went back towards our Campenment hotel and drove a little on the road further to look if there is something interesting to see, but there was nothing, only the insanely mess of trash and rubbish. Senegal is actually one dump, almost everywhere it looks like on the picture here. I do not understand that they are doing such a mess. I was also surprised that it was even so near this holy city. You would say that if you could not smoke inside the city, it would be clean and beautiful around also, but no.


 After a couple of days in Touba we continued south to Toubakouta a few kilometers before the border, where I planned to spend the night. It went nicely, but nothing much interesting happened on the way.

Only when we drove along the way there was one market or whatever it was, donkeys market? There were lots of them and lots of people as well, so I stopped and went to look at, but somehow besides confusion everywhere there was nothing else.


 It went quite fast actually, only when we drove through Kaolack there was again "nice mess", cars and people and trucks, but when we got out, then it was quiet and pretty nice road around the lagoon region.

After to take us at hotel in Toubakouta we gone to lagune there, it was nice quiet there, so we sat and enjoyed the view, and donkeys.

 

Next morning we went and about one half hour we arrived the border with Gambia. There I scurried back and forth between customs and passport control, but it went quite well. Yet.

We would continue when someone waved me into one building, that I must have car insurance. I said that I have it and not need, but they spoke French and only one could a few words of English. And he said that I have because I have Senegalese car and in Gambia's it is not valid or what and blablabla.

Because I can not French and not knew what for habits it is even if the last year I never needed to buy extra insurance. But didn't know if this year are other rules so I bought it. Also I wanted not have eventually problems in Gambia. But I have cursed them, that they are robbing me and fooling me. And angrily went into the car and drove to the harbor, where we were to board a ship.

It happened to me such a nice thing, before I drove away from the border, I was searching after the customs. But not found, so I ignored it and went away. After about 2 kilometers one cop stopped us and asked about papers and even about customs paper to the car, so I told him that I was looking for, but not found where so I thought, I do not need.  But of course I needed it so we went back to declare the car for a small fee.

 The police was happy, and suddenly wanted have five thousand Gambian money. I asked why, I have paid on the border and now I don't pay more. Well, he wanted to be bribed, quite much, I do not remember how much it was in SEK, but much. In the Gambia they love bribes, but from me they did not got nothing.

Then it began again the same circus as last year when we crossed border and took the ferry over Gambia river, LOL

Then it come. Again. First they waved us aside saying it will arrive some "big man" or whatever, and they must have a empty path. We waited and waited, I do not know how long, but more than an hour it was not. Finally he came in a car and drove around so we could continue.
Someone came and said he will help me buy a ticket for the ferry and show the place in the queue. I was happy because in the insanely confusion there was not clear where to go.
I went to buy tickets, crazy crowds, barred window, people were crowded over one and other, over me too, so I began shouting at them to calm them etc. Well, finally I got tickets and went back to the car.

The guy showed me where to go to the correct queue so we did not have to wait long. After a while driving back and forth I got into a queue between two walls and there we would wait. Ferry has not been seen, nothing happened, so I asked when the ship will come in. In about one and a half hours they said. So what I read before that it run every half hour was not valid longer.

Then finally ferry arrived and we boarded the ship. It took about one half hour before we arrived to Banjul port. Then it was only go towards Casamance.




I thought that we will go through the landscape, but the landscape were houses, houses, houses, only here and there it was some threes and green, but then again houses, nearly all the way.

Eventually we saw sign showing towards the border crossings. On the road which led to left were many police, but not at the crossroads and not either to the right where we would go, but ...

I turned to the right and suddenly, I do not know from where, it appeared one police asking why I not stopped and waited. I told her that I not saw her and therefore thought I can continue.
Well, she chattered only so after a while I just begged her to let us go, that it's getting pretty late and we have to be in time on the border to Casamance, before they close it.
But she continued asking, what I have for her and so. I said I have just a smile and an apology and asked to let us go. Haha, she wanted have money, of course, but not got, of course. Then she began I would take her to the Swedish Embassy and arrange a visa to Sweden, ha ha. Well, but it took certainly half an hour before she let us go.

After a while we arrived to the border, passport- and customs control of Gambia. There's surprisingly went well and quickly.
It was worse then on the Senegalese side, which surprised me, because of my earlier experiences with the Senegalese customs they were decent. But this time I was unlucky, especially with one idiot, he really was an idiot.

I stopped in front of STOP sign, one man came to me and told something to me in French. I told him that "Je ne parle pas français", so he tried with gestures show what I shall do. I understood that I should go to the customs officer standing there forward, so I went, by car. When I arrived, stopped in front of the officer and handed him passports. He began to say something to me in French, so I said "Je ne parle pas français". But he continued in French waving that I shall go behind STOP sign. It felt weird, but I backed, and unfortunately not completely behind the sign without a third part of the car was standing before the sign, it not occurred to me that it is wrong, ugh.

I went by foot with passports to the officer. He started again chatting something  in French and eventually I understood that I have to back right behind the sign. Bugger. So I went back to the car again, backed completely behind the sign, and went back to officer. So started he to yell something again and I finally understood that I should go get the car.
So I went back to my car, angry like a fool, had the urge to throw everything I had in hands on the ground and scream, but I tried to keep me calm myself. And went to him by car. Then again, he said something to me so I answered I cannot speak French, but he yelled at me that he not speak English, and then showed me one building to go into. So I went and there finally were nice officers, then at the customs also.
It was just this idiot who's ruined everything.

It started to be dusk and to Abene was still quite far away, or far, about 50 km, perhaps, but a slow road, many hints and obstacles and bumps across the road so that drivers not drive too fast.

The entrance to the hotel then was always thrilling, Patrick, the owner, he did not any arrows, there is not even an asphalt road, just a piste and such piste there were plenty, so it was not so easy to find the right piste, for this I needed a daylight yet, not darkness.

And as I feared, to Abene we had already arrived during darkness, it was only about six o'clock, but it was already dark then. But after a little searching after the piste finally we got to the hotel. They waited us already with the dinner so it was nice, we did not ate anything the whole day, neither to breakfast we had so much.


I like very much this place, it is near to Abene, nice walk on the beach to visit it. We stayed there one week, did not so much, only relaxed, on the beach where we were alone, only one couple from Austria was there. Very nice, peaceful, the water was warm enough so we could take a swim a little, but it was not so enjoyable, because waves was quite high and therefore not so much possible to swim. But it was nice anyway.
























We did a trip around also, to Kafountine, watch the fishermen and pirogs, it is much to see there in the harbor.




I decided me that I do not want to go back through the Gambia, to have problems on the border again, to passing through Gambia is nothing interesting to see either, wait for hours for the boat, jostling to buy tickets and so on.

So we went to Ziguinchor for to buy tickets, it was about 120 km from Abene, from where the ship is going to Dakar. Although it will not be cheap, so to paid at the border, the ferry then, at end it would not be exactly cheap either. We would need to sleep in a hotel somewhere on the way, so it would cost almost the same, plus fuel cost. 

In Ziguinchor we went straight to the port, there one man helped and arranged for me the ticket for the car. It was good, that he helped us because we can not French of course and he spoke a little English, otherwise it would be exciting how it would go, because none there could English.
It was not so easy to get the ticket, the ship was full, but they said our car was small so it could go to find  the place there.
I paid, but they not gave me any receipt, nothing, so it felt quite strange to pay and not get some proof, but I believed them that it'll be alright.

The man said we have to come in 10 hours at the latest the day the ship is to leave although it would go first at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. But it showed later that it was necessary to be there so early.


It was quite different mosque on the way to Bignona, I could do a better picture, but ... it's good enough, or?
 
In Abene we had then two more lazy days. 

After lunch our last day at hotel in Abene we drove to Ziguinchor where we arrived around five o'clock. After to let our luggage at the room we went out to one little "beach", the hotel was right by the river there, so it was nice, but some kind of smelling fish there which was not so nice. The garbage was there as well, although on the side, so we had to look only forward.



This was the most beautiful view there from the hotel.

Next day after breakfast we went to the harbor. Our man was already waiting for us, so I went with him to the «Calvary», ie to pick up tickets for the car and a cab for us then. I had to remove all baggage and go with them to X-ray, where was a crowd of people. The guy said to me that we put baggage here and go somewhere, I do not remember where. Meanwhile we drove the car to the boat, parked and went back to arrange something. Then I got to pay tickets for us. I got a bill, this time yes, but nothing more. Then took our luggage back to the car. And then we went somewhere to crowds of people. Our guy disappeared for a moment but then reappeared with tickets for the cabin. So I cheered.  But 3-4 hours it took before all was done. Terrible.

Then finally we went to the boat with luggage, to the cabin, which was pretty decent. We left our things there and went out to some bar where we sat, drank and ate, and waited for 3 o'clock.

We went almost to the minute, strange, after all the commotion in the harbour and so, so we were happy because it was a long wait there. But a bit boring when we went across the river, there was nothing to behold. First later, when we approached the Atlantic so it began to be interesting and even beautiful here and there.




Then we just have gone on the sea we saw only water, water and water. Sunset was beautiful there.


To Dakar we arrived at morning at 7 o'clock, took breakfast and then out from the ship.

This whole trip I was haunted by unpleasant events, everywhere, one would almost think that it was not true. But that was it, unfortunately.

We left the harbor, arrived at the roundabout and then it happened. There were innumerable cars, all of them were driving as crazy. I needed to go out of to the right lane. Suddenly one taxi drove around and had brushed with the side of his car about our right front wing. Idiot.

We got to drive out off the roundabout and park, the police came and said that we all have to go to the police station. They took my driving license and gave it to taxi driver and his driving license got I for to be sure that nobody disappear somewhere.

Luckily the police station was not so far away, I was just curious, if I then find back. There was one police who spoke decent English so I explained how it happened. Then both I and taxi driver got to go back to the roundabout with the police for to show him, how it happened. Taxi driver was drawing the sketch over the place.

When we returned to the station, I looked at that and saw that he drew it so that the blame was on me. I protested of course and have redraw it. I do not understand that he drew it so when on his car it was clearly visible, who did the wrong. He tried, haha, but he failed.
We wrote a protocol, they gave me a piece of paper with a phone number for to give it to rent a car company and then released me. Taxi driver where still left and what happened to him we do not know.


Then we went to the rent a car company to return the car, Budget it was. There I "enjoyed" again. Oh no. First, everything seemed to be in order, even if office man was not so happy about the car, but he couldn't do nothing. I gave him the paper from the police station.

Well, then he began count how many days we had the car and how much we will pay. So I said it is already paid online to Airport rentals.com so I will not pay again. I showed him a voucher, unfortunately it did not showed clearly that it is paid already, although it was a notice there that the payment is visible on the bank statement.
But, nonono, it is not paid, said the man and was quite unpleasant even. Too bad I had only the voucher and not also bank statement. So we had to pay, otherwise we would get never going from there.

Well, at home it showed of course, that it was paid, so now I am arguing with the Airport rentals.com for the money. I wonder when we get them back, yet it is not coming anything. It was not a small sum, probably a little more than 10 thousand SEK.

So it was my trip this time, not so lucky at all. Problem almost the whole time. Such happen sometimes traveling. But, it was nice time anyway in Touba, I really enjoyed it. And in Abene it was nice also, relaxing.